# Portland Tile & Remodels: full content reference > Family owned bathroom and kitchen remodeling company serving Portland, OR · Clackamas, OR · Happy Valley, OR · Lake Oswego, OR · Oregon City, OR · West Linn, OR · Beaverton, OR · Hillsboro, OR · Tigard, OR · Tualatin, OR · Vancouver, WA · Camas, WA · Washougal, WA. Known for craftsmanship and attention to detail. Phone (503) 208-4523. Oregon CCB #255837, licensed, bonded, and insured. This file contains the full text of our guides and service pages for AI systems; the index lives at https://portlandtile.com/llms.txt. # Core bathroom remodeling FAQ **How much does a bathroom remodel cost in Portland?** Most full bathroom remodels in the Portland area run $20,000 to $50,000. A tub to shower conversion typically runs $12,000 to $18,000+, and a custom primary suite with premium tile and fixtures runs $50,000 and up. Room size, layout changes, tile selection, and fixtures drive the number. For a range specific to your bathroom, use the planner on this page, then confirm it with a free in home estimate. **How long does a bathroom remodel take?** A typical Portland bathroom remodel takes about two to four weeks of active work once the project begins, depending on the scope. A focused tub to shower conversion can move faster, while a full remodel that relocates plumbing, adds custom tile, or includes a freestanding tub takes longer. Proper demo, waterproofing, and tile work each need time to be done right, and some steps require curing or inspection before the next can start. We give you a realistic schedule up front and keep the project organized so the timeline stays predictable. **Do I need permits for a bathroom remodel?** In most cases, yes. Bathroom remodels in Portland and surrounding cities generally require permits when the work involves plumbing, electrical, or structural changes, which most tile shower and tub to shower projects do. Simple cosmetic updates may not, but anything touching the wet system usually does. Permits exist to confirm the work meets code, especially the waterproofing and plumbing that protect your home long term. As your contractor, we handle the permitting process for the work we perform, so the city paperwork never lands on your desk. **What is the best waterproofing system for a tile shower?** The best waterproofing systems for a tile shower are modern bonded membranes, such as sheet membranes (like Schluter-Kerdi) or board based systems (like Wedi or foam backer with a liquid membrane), installed as a continuous, sealed barrier behind the tile. Brand matters less than installation: sealed seams, proper slope to the drain, and a waterproof connection at the curb and corners. Tile and grout are not waterproof on their own, so the system behind them does the real work. We treat waterproofing as a core step on every shower we build. **Is a tub to shower conversion worth it?** For many homeowners, yes. A tub to shower conversion turns a rarely used tub into a roomy, easy to access walk in shower, which often suits daily life better and can make a bathroom feel larger and more modern. It’s a popular choice for aging in place, primary baths, and homes with multiple tubs elsewhere. If you’re selling soon and the home has only one tub, it’s worth weighing buyer preferences. As an investment, a well built tile shower with proper waterproofing adds lasting function and appeal that a worn out tub simply doesn’t. **Can I finance a bathroom remodel?** Yes. Financing is available, so you can move forward with the bathroom you want and pay over time instead of all at once. It is often what makes a larger project, like a full remodel or a luxury bathroom, workable. Subject to credit approval; all credit decisions and loan terms are determined by the lender. Ask about our financing options when you request your estimate and we will point you to the application. **What areas does Portland Tile serve?** Portland Tile & Remodels serves Portland and the greater Portland metro, including Clackamas, Happy Valley, Lake Oswego, Oregon City, West Linn, Beaverton, Hillsboro, Tigard, and Tualatin, plus Southwest Washington, including Vancouver, Camas, and Washougal. If your city is not on the list, ask. We travel throughout the region. # Flooring FAQ **How much does new flooring cost in Portland?** Flooring cost in the Portland area depends mostly on the material and the square footage, plus any subfloor repair or old floor removal. Luxury vinyl plank is typically the most budget friendly, tile and engineered hardwood sit in the middle, and solid hardwood or natural stone runs highest. Refinishing existing hardwood usually costs less than replacing it. The most accurate number comes from a quick in home measure, where we can see your subfloor, layout, and the material you have in mind. **What is the most durable flooring for a busy home?** For homes with kids, pets, and heavy traffic, luxury vinyl plank and porcelain tile are the most forgiving. Both are water resistant, scratch resistant, and easy to clean. Hardwood is beautiful and long lasting and can be refinished multiple times, but it’s more sensitive to moisture and scratches. The right choice depends on the room: tile or LVP for kitchens, baths, and entryways; hardwood or laminate for living areas and bedrooms. We’ll help you match the material to how each space gets used day to day. **Should I refinish or replace my hardwood floors?** If your hardwood is solid and still has enough thickness above the tongue and groove, refinishing is usually the better value. Sanding, staining, and resealing makes old floors look new for far less than replacement. Replacement makes more sense when the wood is thin engineered material, badly water damaged, cupping, or you want to change the species or layout. We can tell you which path fits during a quick look at your floors. **Do you install flooring as part of a kitchen or bathroom remodel?** Yes. Flooring is where Portland Tile started, so it’s fully integrated into our remodels. We coordinate the floor with the rest of the project so transitions, heights, and tile lines all line up. You can also hire us for flooring on its own, with no remodel attached. Either way, we handle the subfloor prep and the installation, so the floor is built right from the subfloor to the finish. # Services ## Tub to Shower Conversions Source: https://portlandtile.com/tub-to-shower-conversions **How much does a tub to shower conversion cost in Portland?** A tub to shower conversion in the Portland area typically runs $12,000 to $18,000 or more, depending on shower size, tile selection, glass, and whether the plumbing layout changes. That covers tub removal, a bonded waterproofing system, tile, a niche, new fixtures, and a glass door or panel, with about two weeks of active work. ### What a tub to shower conversion includes Bathtub removal and haul away, a waterproofed pan and walls, hand set tile with a niche and optional bench, a new valve and fixtures, and glass. One project manager runs all of it, so the plumbing, tile, and glass measurements never get lost between trades. If you want a tub where one already is, we also handle straight bathtub replacement with a new surround. ### Waterproofing under the new shower An old tub hid its plumbing behind a one piece shell. A tile shower has no such forgiveness: the pan, the slope, and the corners have to be sealed as one continuous system. We bond a waterproof membrane across the whole wet area and test it before tile. ### Aging in place and low threshold options Most of our conversion clients are thinking ten years ahead: a wide opening, a low or zero curb, a bench, and blocking in the walls for future grab bars. Planned during the conversion, those cost little. Retrofitted later, they cost a remodel. It is also why the guest bath is worth converting, not just the primary. ### FAQ **How long does a tub to shower conversion take?** About two weeks of active work for most conversions. Demo and tub removal take a day or two, then waterproofing, tile, and grout each need their own working and curing time, and glass is measured after the tile is set. If the plumbing layout moves or we find damage under the old tub, the schedule grows, and we tell you as soon as we know. **Will removing a tub hurt my home's resale value?** Usually not, with one caution: appraisers and family buyers like at least one tub in the house. If your home has a second bathroom with a tub, converting the primary to a walk in shower is one of the most popular upgrades we build. If it's the only tub, weigh how long you plan to stay against what future buyers in your neighborhood expect. **Do I need a permit to convert a tub to a shower?** In Portland and most surrounding cities, yes, because the work touches plumbing: the drain moves from a tub drain to a shower drain and the valve is replaced. We pull the permits for the work we perform, so the paperwork stays off your plate. Inspections cover the plumbing and the pan, which is exactly the work that should be checked. **Can I get a curbless shower in a tub conversion?** Often, yes. A curbless entry needs enough floor structure to recess the pan and slope it to the drain, which we can usually create in the footprint an alcove tub leaves behind. It depends on your joist direction and subfloor depth, so we confirm during the in home visit. If curbless doesn't pencil out, a low curb gets close to the same ease of entry. --- ## Tile Shower Installation Source: https://portlandtile.com/tile-shower-installation **How much does a tile shower cost in Portland?** A new walk in tile shower in the Portland area typically runs $10,000 to $25,000 or more, depending on size, tile selection, glass, and fixtures. That covers demo of the old shower, a bonded waterproofing membrane and substrate, shower tile installation on the walls and floor, a niche, a new valve, and glass. Remodeling an existing shower in place sits in the same range. Natural stone and pattern work sit at the top. ### Schluter, Wedi, and liquid waterproofing systems Sheet membranes like Schluter-Kerdi, foam board systems like Wedi, and liquid applied membranes each have their place, and we install whichever fits your shower and budget. What never changes: sealed seams, a tested pan, and a continuous barrier from the curb to above the shower head. ### Tile layout planning Before the first cut we draw the walls: where the pattern centers, where cuts fall, how the niche courses align with the grout lines. Porcelain, marble, zellige, picket, herringbone: the material changes, the discipline doesn't. ### Shower leak repair and rebuilds A lot of our calls start with a soft spot in the floor or grout that keeps cracking. Production built showers from the boom years often skipped the membrane entirely. We open it up, dry it out, repair the framing if water got that far, and rebuild it as a sealed system. ### FAQ **What is the best waterproofing system for a tile shower?** The best systems are modern bonded membranes: sheet systems like Schluter-Kerdi, board systems like Wedi, or a liquid applied membrane over proper backer. Brand matters less than installation: sealed seams, correct slope to the drain, and a waterproof connection at the curb and corners. We install all three types and match the system to the shower. **How long does a tile shower installation take?** Plan on one to two weeks of active work for a shower in the existing footprint. Demo, substrate, and waterproofing come first, the membrane gets tested, then tile, grout, and sealant each need working and curing time. Glass is measured after tile and typically arrives a week or two later, so the full finish can trail the tile work. **Are tile showers worth it compared to acrylic surrounds?** A tile shower costs more up front and outlasts an acrylic surround by decades. Acrylic units fade, scratch, and read builder grade to buyers; a hand set tile shower on a bonded membrane is a permanent upgrade that carries value at resale. If the budget is tight, we would rather build you a simpler tile shower done right than a premium surround. **Why is my existing shower leaking?** Nine times out of ten, the waterproofing behind the tile failed or never existed: no membrane, an unsloped pan, or corners sealed with caulk instead of a bonded barrier. Grout and tile only slow water down. If you see cracking grout, staining below the bathroom, or a soft floor, have the wet area inspected before the framing pays for it. --- ## Walk In & Curbless Showers Source: https://portlandtile.com/walk-in-curbless-showers **What does a curbless shower require that a standard shower doesn't?** A curbless shower needs the pan recessed into the floor structure so the finished shower floor sits flush with the bathroom floor and still slopes to the drain. That usually means modifying joists or building up the surrounding floor, plus a linear drain and waterproofing that extends well beyond the shower opening. It is structural work as much as tile work. ### How a curbless shower pan is built Water needs fall to reach the drain, and with no curb to dam it, the fall has to be recessed into the structure. We open the floor, drop the pan between the joists or sister them as needed, and waterproof the whole assembly as one piece. Done right, it reads as a single seamless floor. ### Aging in place showers Zero threshold, a wide opening, a built in bench, and wall blocking for grab bars: a curbless shower is the centerpiece of a bathroom that works at every age. Portland's housing stock is full of tubs nobody can step over at 80. We build the alternative. ### Linear drains, glass, and large format tile Large format tile, a linear drain tight against the wall, glass set directly into the floor: the cleaner the look, the less room for error underneath it. This is where planning the layout on paper pays off, because in a curbless shower every line shows. ### FAQ **How much does a curbless shower cost in Portland?** Curbless showers share the walk in tile shower range, $10,000 to $25,000 or more in the Portland area, and the structural work of recessing the pan puts most of them in the upper half of it. Size, tile, glass, and how your floor is framed drive the number. We confirm what your structure allows during the in home visit before quoting. **Can any bathroom get a curbless shower?** Most can, but not all. We need enough joist depth to recess the pan and slope it to a drain, or room to build up the surrounding floor. Homes on slabs, upper floors, and older houses with shallow joists each have their own solutions and constraints. It's a structural question, so we answer it during the in home visit. **Do curbless showers leak more than showers with a curb?** A properly built one, no. The pan, the flat floor around it, and the transition all get covered by one continuous bonded membrane, and the drain does the containment work a curb would have done. What earns curbless showers their reputation is bad installation: shortcuts in the slope or membrane show up faster without a curb as a backstop. **Does a walk in shower need a door?** Not necessarily. With enough depth, a walk in shower can run doorless with a single fixed panel or an open entry, which most people love day to day. The tradeoffs are splash and warmth: shallower showers want glass, and some people prefer an enclosed, steamier space. We lay out both options for your room during design. --- ## Small Bathroom Remodels Source: https://portlandtile.com/small-bathroom-remodels **How much does a small bathroom remodel cost in Portland?** A small or guest bathroom remodel in the Portland area typically runs $15,000 to $40,000, and a powder room refresh $5,000 to $12,000. The range is wide because a small room can still hold a full tile shower, new plumbing, and heated floors; a small bathroom needs every trade a big one does, just less tile. ### Small bathroom layouts A pocket door instead of a swing, a curbless shower instead of a tub, a wall hung vanity that shows the floor running underneath: each move buys visual space without moving walls. When walls do need to move, we tell you what it costs before you fall in love with the plan. ### Remodeling older Portland bathrooms Most of our small bath work is in Craftsman bungalows and Foursquares with a single bathroom that has never been properly redone. We plan around the knob and tube and galvanized surprises these houses hide, keep the period character, and put a modern waterproofed shower behind it. ### Tile choices for small bathrooms A tight footprint is the one place a saturated color or a strong pattern works best, because there's not enough of it to overwhelm. Floor to ceiling tile in a small shower also does practical work: it reads taller, cleans easier, and never needs repainting. ### FAQ **How long does a small bathroom remodel take?** Usually two to three weeks of active work. The room is small but the sequence is the same as a large bath: demo, rough plumbing and electrical, waterproofing, tile, fixtures, and finish, each with its own working and curing time. A powder room without a shower moves faster, often about a week. **Can a small bathroom fit a walk in shower?** Almost always. A 32 by 48 inch shower fits where most alcove tubs sat, and going doorless or curbless makes even that footprint feel open. Clear glass instead of a curtain, a recessed niche instead of a caddy, and a linear drain all stretch the same square footage further. **Is remodeling a small bathroom worth it?** Small baths are among the best returning remodels in Portland's older housing stock, because the before and after is so stark: a cramped 1920s bathroom versus a tiled, waterproofed, well lit one. Buyers walk into bathrooms first, and a small one done right punches far above its square footage. **Do I still need permits for a small bathroom?** If plumbing or electrical moves, yes, the same as any bathroom in Portland and surrounding cities. Swapping finishes in place may not need one, but most small bath remodels replace the shower, which touches the wet system. We handle the permits for the work we perform. --- ## Luxury Bathroom Remodels Source: https://portlandtile.com/luxury-bathroom-remodels **How much does a luxury bathroom remodel cost in Portland?** A high end primary bathroom remodel in the Portland area typically runs $50,000 to $120,000 or more. The drivers are materials and custom work: natural stone and large format tile, a curbless shower or wet room, a freestanding tub, heated floors, custom glass, and cabinetry built for the room. Relocated plumbing and layout changes push the top of the range. ### Wet rooms and walk in showers Curbless entries, full height stone, linear drains, steam ready enclosures, and wet rooms that put the tub inside the glass. The showpiece surfaces all sit on the same unglamorous foundation: recessed structure, bonded waterproofing, and substrates flat enough for large format stone. ### Natural stone, marble, and large format tile Marble and quartzite telegraph every flaw beneath them: a lippage you'd never notice in ceramic reads instantly in a polished slab. We dry lay, we level, and we match veining across walls and niches, because at this budget the details are the product. ### Heated floors, lighting, and comfort systems Electric floor heat under the tile, ventilation sized for a steam heavy suite, layered lighting from vanity to shower, and a freestanding tub filled from the floor or the wall. These systems go in during rough in, which is why the planning phase decides the comfort of the room. ### FAQ **How long does a luxury bathroom remodel take?** Plan on four to eight weeks of active work, plus a design and procurement phase before demo. Stone slabs, custom glass, plumbing fixtures, and cabinetry all have lead times, so we order everything before we open a wall. Layout changes with relocated plumbing sit at the long end. **Is a wet room worth it?** If you want a freestanding tub and a large shower in a room that can't comfortably separate them, yes: one glass enclosure around both uses the space better and looks striking. The whole zone gets waterproofed like one giant shower, which is more membrane work up front but a calmer, easier to clean room for decades. **Do you work with designers and architects?** Yes, and happily. Some clients arrive with full drawings and a materials schedule; others want us to lead the design. Either way, the tile and stone execution is ours, and we flag constructability issues, like where a drain line fights a joist, before they become change orders. **Does a luxury bathroom remodel add home value?** In Portland's higher end neighborhoods, a dated primary bath is often the single thing holding a home back, and a well executed suite is what buyers at that price expect to see finished. You rarely recoup dollar for dollar on paper, but you buy years of daily use plus a home that competes at its price point when you sell. --- ## Kitchen Cabinets Source: https://portlandtile.com/kitchen-cabinets **Should I choose custom or RTA cabinets?** Ready to assemble cabinets fit most kitchens and budgets: quality boxes in standard sizes, delivered fast and finished well. Custom cabinetry earns its cost when the layout has odd dimensions, when you want a specific wood or finish, or when built ins and full height storage are part of the design. Cabinetry is the largest single line in most kitchen budgets, so this one decision shapes the whole project. ### Custom kitchen cabinetry Built for your layout, in the wood and finish you choose: full height pantry walls, paneled appliances, islands sized to the room, and storage designed around how you cook. Custom is the path when the kitchen is unusual or the design is specific. ### Ready to assemble cabinets Modern RTA lines are well built plywood boxes with soft close hardware at a fraction of custom pricing. We handle selection, ordering, assembly, and installation, and we level and scribe them so the finished kitchen reads as built in, not bolted in. ### Cabinet installation and finishing Level runs, aligned doors, consistent reveals, and crown and trim that meet the ceiling cleanly. Installation is where cabinets go from boxes to a kitchen, and it is the part we never rush. ### FAQ **Are RTA cabinets good quality?** The good lines are. Modern RTA cabinets are plywood boxes with dovetailed drawers and soft close hardware, and once they are assembled, leveled, and trimmed correctly they perform like cabinets costing twice as much. The quality risk with RTA is almost always the assembly and installation, not the box, which is why we handle both. **How much of a kitchen budget goes to cabinets?** Cabinetry is usually the largest single line in a kitchen remodel, commonly a third or more of the total budget. That share is why the custom versus RTA decision matters so much: it moves the whole project number more than any other single choice. Our kitchen remodel cost guide breaks down where the rest of the budget goes. **Can you match new cabinets to my kitchen's existing style?** Yes. Door profile, wood species, stain or paint color, and hardware carry the style. For period homes we lean toward shaker and inset profiles that match the house; for modern kitchens, slab doors and integrated pulls. We bring samples during design so you approve the exact door and finish before anything is ordered. **Do you replace cabinet doors only, or full cabinets?** Our cabinet work is part of kitchen remodels, so we replace full cabinet runs rather than refacing doors on existing boxes. If your boxes are worn, out of level, or poorly laid out, replacement gives a better result for similar effort, and it lets us fix the layout at the same time. --- ## Kitchen Countertops Source: https://portlandtile.com/kitchen-countertops **Quartz or natural stone: which countertop should you choose?** Quartz is the workhorse: nonporous, consistent in pattern, and nearly maintenance free, which is why it goes into most of our kitchens. Natural stone, granite, marble, and quartzite, brings depth and one of a kind veining that quartz imitates but never quite matches, at the cost of periodic sealing. Marble is the most beautiful and the most delicate; quartzite gets close to the look with far more durability. ### Quartz countertops Engineered stone in hundreds of colors and patterns, from clean solids to convincing marble looks. Nonporous, so wine and coffee wipe up instead of soaking in. Waterfall edges, full height backsplashes, and integrated sinks all work well in quartz. ### Granite, marble, and quartzite Real stone, chosen slab by slab. Granite for durability and pattern, quartzite for marble looks with granite toughness, and marble where the classic veining is the whole point. We walk the slab yard with you so the stone in your kitchen is the exact one you picked. ### Templating, seams, and edges Counters are measured after cabinets are set, so the template matches the kitchen as built. Seams get placed where they disappear, overhangs get supported properly, and edge profiles get matched to the style of the room. ### FAQ **How much do quartz countertops cost compared to granite?** In the Portland market they overlap heavily: entry level granite often costs less than premium quartz, and designer quartz can cost more than exotic natural stone. The bigger cost drivers are square footage, edge profile, cutouts, and how many slabs your layout needs. We price counters as part of the kitchen so you see the real installed number, not a per square foot teaser. **Do quartz countertops scratch or stain?** Quartz resists both better than nearly any other surface, which is why it dominates modern kitchens. It is not invincible: a hot pan straight off the burner can scorch the resin, so trivets still matter. Day to day, it needs nothing but soap and water, with no sealing ever. **Does natural stone need to be sealed?** Granite and quartzite should be sealed about once a year, a ten minute wipe on job you can do yourself. Marble needs more care: it etches with acids like lemon and wine regardless of sealer, which is part of its lived in character. If that patina sounds like a flaw rather than a feature, quartz or quartzite is the better choice. **When are countertops installed during a kitchen remodel?** After cabinets are set and leveled. The counters are templated on the installed cabinetry, fabrication typically takes one to two weeks, and installation itself is usually a single day. The backsplash goes in after the counters, so the tile meets the finished surface cleanly. --- ## Kitchen Backsplashes Source: https://portlandtile.com/kitchen-backsplashes **What makes a kitchen backsplash look custom?** Layout. A custom backsplash centers the pattern on the range, lands clean cuts at the corners and outlets, and finishes edges with mitered corners or matching trim instead of plastic strips. The tile itself matters less than where every piece falls: the same subway tile reads builder grade or bespoke depending entirely on the layout and the finishing. ### Tile backsplashes Subway, zellige, mosaic, picket, and stacked patterns in porcelain, ceramic, and natural stone. We plan the layout around the range and the window line, so the pattern lands centered where you actually look. ### Full height slab backsplashes The counter material carried up the wall in one uninterrupted sheet: no grout lines, wipes clean in one pass, and makes the range wall read as a single designed surface. Popular behind ranges and in modern kitchens. ### Edges, outlets, and transitions Outlets aligned with grout lines, edges finished with mitered tile or color matched trim, and clean transitions where tile meets counter, cabinet, and hood. The last five percent of a backsplash is most of what you see. ### FAQ **How much does a kitchen backsplash cost?** It depends on the tile and the wall. A straightforward ceramic subway backsplash is one of the most affordable upgrades in a kitchen, while handmade zellige, natural stone mosaics, and full height slab work cost several times more in both material and labor. Because we install backsplashes as part of kitchen projects, the honest answer comes with the kitchen quote, where the backsplash is priced with its real prep and finishing. **Should the backsplash go to the ceiling?** Behind the range and on walls without upper cabinets, full height tile or slab looks intentional and is easier to keep clean. Between counters and upper cabinets, standard height works and costs less. Open shelving kitchens almost always look better with tile run full height behind the shelves. **Can you install a backsplash over existing drywall?** Yes, on a dry kitchen wall in good condition, tile can go directly over painted drywall with the right preparation. Walls behind ranges get checked for grease saturation and repaired first. If the old backsplash is coming off, we assess the wall after demo, since removal often takes the paper face of the drywall with it. **Do you match the backsplash to the countertop?** We design them together. Busy counters pair best with quiet backsplashes and vice versa, and the grout color gets chosen against both. If you want the counter material continued up the wall, a full height slab backsplash makes counter and wall read as one piece. --- ## Hardwood Flooring Source: https://portlandtile.com/hardwood-flooring **Should you refinish or replace hardwood floors?** Refinish when the boards are solid and thick enough above the tongue and groove, which covers most solid hardwood that has not been sanded several times already. Replace when the wood is thin engineered material, water damaged, cupping, or when you want to change the species, plank width, or direction. Refinishing costs less and keeps the original floor; replacement resets everything, including the subfloor prep underneath. ### Solid and engineered hardwood installation Nail down, glue down, and floating installs in oak, maple, walnut, and engineered planks up to wide format. We acclimate material in the house before it goes down, plan the run direction against the joists and the sight lines, and hold consistent expansion gaps under the base. ### Self leveling and subfloor prep Portland floor framing moves, and old houses are rarely flat. We self level the substrate where the deflection calls for it, fasten down squeaks, and repair subfloor before any material goes on. Every flatness problem you skip shows up later as a hollow spot, a gap, or a squeak. ### Hardwood floor refinishing Sanding, staining, and resealing existing hardwood, including the old growth fir and oak under the carpet in a lot of Portland bungalows. Dust contained, edges cut in by hand, and the finish matched to how the room gets used. ### Custom hardwood vents and transitions Flush hardwood vents made from the same material as the floor, so the register disappears into the run instead of sitting on top of it in metal. Clean transitions where hardwood meets tile, stone, and carpet, cut so the height change reads as intentional. ### FAQ **How long does hardwood floor installation take?** For a typical Portland home, plan on several days to about a week of active work for a standard install, plus acclimation time before it starts. Refinishing runs about three to five days depending on square footage and the number of coats, with cure time after. Self leveling or subfloor repair adds a day or more, and we tell you that before we start, not after demo. **Can you refinish floors that have been sanded before?** Usually, if there is enough wood left above the tongue and groove. Solid hardwood can typically take several sandings over its life; engineered flooring depends entirely on the thickness of its wear layer, and some can only be refinished once or not at all. We check the thickness at a vent or a threshold before committing to a plan. **Is engineered hardwood as good as solid?** For most homes, yes, and in some cases better. Engineered planks are more stable across humidity swings, which matters in Portland, and they can go over concrete and radiant heat where solid cannot. Solid hardwood wins on total refinish life. The deciding factors are usually the subfloor, the room, and how wide you want the planks. **Do you install hardwood as part of a remodel or on its own?** Both. Flooring is where we started, so it is fully integrated into our bathroom and kitchen remodels and coordinated with tile heights and transitions. You can also hire us for flooring alone, with no remodel attached, and get the same subfloor prep and installation crew. --- ## Stairs & Railings Source: https://portlandtile.com/stairs-and-railings **What does a custom staircase remodel involve?** Rebuilding a staircase means new solid hardwood treads and risers, a custom milled stair nose at the front edge of each tread, and finish work where the stairs meet the floor above and below. Railings are a separate build: posts anchored into the framing, balusters or metal spindles set plumb, and a handrail shaped and joined to run continuously around landings and turns. ### Hardwood treads and custom stair noses Solid hardwood treads matched to the floor they meet, with stair noses milled to the profile the design calls for rather than pulled off a shelf. The nose is the edge every foot lands on and every eye follows down the flight, so it gets made to fit. ### Carpet runners on hardwood stairs A runner gives you traction and quiet without hiding the wood. We set the runner centered with even reveals on both sides, wrapped tight at every nose, so the lines stay parallel the whole way down instead of wandering a quarter inch per step. ### Custom railings, posts, and spindles Wood handrails, black metal spindles, and squared or turned posts, anchored into framing so nothing moves under a hand. We build to code on rise, run, and baluster spacing, then join the handrail so it flows around landings without a visible seam. ### Carpet installation We install carpet as well, on stairs and in the rooms where it still makes sense: bedrooms, bonus rooms, and basements. Same prep standard as any other floor, with the subfloor flattened and fastened before anything is laid. ### FAQ **Can you replace carpeted stairs with hardwood?** Yes, and it is one of the more dramatic changes you can make in an entry. We pull the carpet, assess the treads underneath, which in most homes are construction grade material never meant to be seen, and install solid hardwood treads with custom stair noses over them. You can finish them bare or add a runner. **Do you have to replace the railing when you redo the stairs?** Not always. If the posts are solid and the handrail is in good shape, we can refinish the existing railing to match new treads. Railings get replaced when they are loose at the posts, when the baluster spacing does not meet current code, or when the style no longer fits the house. **What is a stair nose and why does it need to be custom?** The stair nose is the shaped front edge of each tread that overhangs the riser. Stock noses come in a handful of profiles and species, and they rarely match a floor exactly, so the edge of every step reads slightly off. Milling the nose to match the flooring means the tread and the floor look like one material. **Are your stairs and railings built to code?** Yes. Rise and run consistency, handrail height and graspability, and baluster spacing that will not pass a four inch sphere are all code items inspectors check, and they exist because stairs are where people get hurt. We build to those requirements and pull permits where the work requires them. --- ## LVP Flooring Source: https://portlandtile.com/lvp-flooring **Is luxury vinyl plank flooring worth it?** For kitchens, bathrooms, entries, basements, and busy family homes, yes. Luxury vinyl plank is fully waterproof, resists scratches and dents better than real wood, installs over most existing subfloors, and costs meaningfully less than hardwood. What it gives up is refinishing: when LVP wears out you replace it, where hardwood can be sanded back to new several times. ### Where LVP makes the most sense Kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, entries, and basements, anywhere water and traffic are constant. It is also the practical whole home choice for rentals and for families who would rather not think about the floor for the next fifteen years. ### Self leveling under LVP Thin, rigid plank telegraphs everything under it. A floor that reads flat enough for carpet is often not flat enough for LVP, so we self level the low spots and grind the high ones. Skipping that step is why some vinyl floors click and flex underfoot. ### Laminate and tile flooring Where the budget or the room points elsewhere, we install laminate as well, and porcelain or natural stone tile floors when you want the real thing underfoot in a bathroom or entry. We help match the material to how each room actually gets used. ### FAQ **Is LVP really waterproof?** The plank itself is, which is why it works in bathrooms and basements where hardwood cannot go. The seams are water resistant rather than sealed, so a spill wipes up with no damage but standing water from a burst supply line will eventually find its way underneath. For a bathroom floor over a living space, tile with a membrane is still the safer build. **Can LVP be installed over existing flooring?** Often, yes. It can go over most flat, sound subfloors and over some existing hard surfaces, which saves demo cost. The condition that decides it is flatness, not what is currently down. We check the floor with a straightedge and level what needs leveling before quoting the install. **How does LVP compare to laminate?** LVP is waterproof and quieter underfoot; laminate has a fiberboard core that swells if water sits on it, though it often costs a little less and some lines have a sharper wood grain print. In Portland kitchens and bathrooms we recommend LVP nearly every time. Laminate is a reasonable choice for bedrooms and offices on a tight budget. **How long does LVP flooring last?** A quality plank with a thick wear layer holds up fifteen to twenty years or more in a normal household, and longer in low traffic rooms. The wear layer thickness matters more than the brand or the price. When it does wear out, it gets replaced rather than refinished, which is the main trade against hardwood. --- ## Tile Flooring Source: https://portlandtile.com/tile-flooring **What goes under a tile floor?** Under the tile is what decides whether it lasts. A tile floor needs a substrate that is flat, stiff enough not to flex, and separated from the subfloor's movement, usually with an uncoupling membrane or backer board. Wood framed floors move with the seasons in Portland, and tile does not, so that layer is what keeps grout lines from cracking and tiles from coming loose. ### Porcelain, ceramic, and natural stone floors Porcelain for durability and water resistance, ceramic where budget matters, and natural stone, marble, travertine, and slate, where the material itself is the point. We help match the tile to the room, because a stone that is beautiful in an entry can be the wrong call in a kitchen. ### Large format tile installation Big tile is the least forgiving material we set. It needs a floor flat within tight tolerance, full mortar coverage under every piece, and precise lippage control at each edge, because any dip in the substrate shows up as a raised corner you feel with a bare foot. ### Self leveling and uncoupling membranes We self level low spots, fasten down movement, and set an uncoupling or waterproofing membrane where the floor calls for it. Skipping this step is the single most common reason tile floors fail, and it is invisible once the tile is down. ### Heated tile floors Electric floor heat installed under the tile in bathrooms and entryways, wired during rough in and controlled by a programmable thermostat. It is the upgrade people who have it never give up, and it costs far less to install during a remodel than to retrofit later. ### FAQ **How long does a tile floor last?** Properly installed, decades. Porcelain and stone outlast every other flooring material, and the tile itself rarely fails. What fails is the installation: cracked grout, loose tiles, and hollow spots almost always trace back to a substrate that flexed, was not flat, or never got an uncoupling layer. **Can you tile over an existing floor?** Sometimes, but it is usually the wrong call. Tiling over old vinyl or an existing tile floor raises the height at every doorway and inherits whatever problems are underneath. When the existing floor is sound, flat, and well bonded, it can work. We check with a straightedge and a moisture read before recommending it. **Is tile too cold for a Portland home?** It is colder underfoot than wood or plank, which is exactly why heated floors and tile go together so often here. Electric mats add modest cost during installation and change how a bathroom feels on a January morning. Without heat, area rugs handle it in most rooms. **What size grout lines should a tile floor have?** It depends on the tile. Rectified large format tile can run tight joints around one sixteenth of an inch, while handmade and natural stone need wider joints to absorb size variation between pieces. Grout color matters as much as width: matching it to the tile makes a floor read as one surface, contrasting it makes a pattern. # Guides ## What is the best waterproofing system for a tile shower? Source: https://portlandtile.com/guides/tile-shower-waterproofing (published 2026-07-16) The best waterproofing for a tile shower is a modern bonded membrane: a sheet system like Schluter-Kerdi, a foam board system like Wedi, or a liquid applied membrane over proper backer. All three work when installed as a continuous, sealed barrier with correct slope. Installation quality matters more than brand, because tile and grout are not waterproof on their own. ### How tile shower waterproofing works Water passes through grout lines and, over time, through many tiles themselves. In a properly built shower, that's fine: the tile takes the wear while a bonded membrane underneath sheds every drop to the drain. In a shower built without that layer, the framing takes the water instead, and the first visible symptom, cracking grout or a soft floor, arrives years after the leak started. That is why the question isn't whether to waterproof but which system to use, and every system on this page beats the old approach of tiling straight over cement board and hoping. ### Sheet membranes: Schluter-Kerdi and similar systems A sheet membrane is a thin polyethylene layer troweled onto the walls and pan with thinset, with every seam and corner overlapped and sealed. Schluter-Kerdi is the best known name, and its matching foam pans, niches, and linear drains make the whole shower one engineered system. Strengths: proven, fully bonded, and inspectable; you can flood test the pan before a single tile goes on. Watch outs: seams are only as good as the installer's overlap and thinset coverage, which is where rushed jobs fail. ### Foam board systems: Wedi and similar panels Board systems like Wedi replace the backer board entirely: the waterproofing is the wall. Panels are foam cores with waterproof facings, glued and sealed at the joints with the manufacturer's urethane sealant. Strengths: fast, light, dead flat, and waterproof through the full thickness, so a scratch doesn't breach it. They also solve curved and custom shapes well. Watch outs: material cost is higher, and the joints depend on the sealant being applied exactly as specified. ### Liquid applied membranes Liquid applied membranes (RedGard, Hydro Ban, and others) are rolled or troweled over cement board, curing into a rubbery skin. Applied at the right thickness in the right number of coats, they perform well, and they shine in odd geometries where sheets fight you. Watch outs: thickness is everything and invisible after the fact. Two thin coats look identical to the required build but are not. This is the system most often under applied on fast jobs, which is why liquid gets an unfair reputation; the failures are almost always application failures. ### Installation matters more than the brand We install all three systems and would put any of them in our own homes. The differences that decide whether your shower is dry in fifteen years are these: - A continuous barrier: pan, walls, curb, niche, and bench sealed as one system with no gaps at the transitions. - Correct slope: a quarter inch per foot to the drain in the pan, and sloped anywhere water can sit. - Sealed penetrations: the valve, the shower head arm, and any grab bar blocking sealed where they pierce the membrane. - A flood test before tile: plug the drain, fill the pan, wait, and check. Ten dollars of water beats ten thousand in framing repair. ### Signs your shower waterproofing has failed Grout that keeps cracking along the same lines, tiles that sound hollow, a floor that gives slightly at the shower entry, staining on the ceiling below the bathroom, or a musty smell that cleaning doesn't fix. Any of these is worth an inspection before the water reaches the subfloor. On Portland area homes built quickly during the boom years, we often find no membrane at all behind the tile. ### Related questions **Is RedGard or another liquid membrane enough on its own?** Yes, when applied at the manufacturer's specified thickness, usually two full coats measured with a wet film gauge, over properly taped cement board. Most liquid membrane failures we open up trace back to a single thin coat applied in a hurry. If your installer uses liquid, ask how they verify thickness; a confident answer is a good sign. **Can you waterproof over drywall in a shower?** Sheet and board systems rated for it can go over standard drywall in certain assemblies, and Schluter explicitly allows Kerdi over drywall. It must be flat, fastened correctly, and every seam sealed. That said, in a full remodel we typically use cement board or foam board anyway; the cost difference is small and the margin for error larger. **Do inspectors check shower waterproofing?** Under a plumbing permit, the shower pan is typically inspected, often with a flood test, before it is covered. Wall membranes above the pan get less scrutiny, which is why choosing a contractor who treats the whole enclosure as one sealed system matters. We photograph our membrane work before tile so you have a record of what's behind your walls. **How much does waterproofing add to a shower's cost?** On a new tile shower, the membrane system is a small slice of the total, typically a few hundred to around a thousand dollars in materials depending on the system and shower size. It is the least expensive part of the job relative to what it protects. If a bid is dramatically cheaper than the others, the membrane is often where the money came out. --- ## Do you need a permit for a bathroom remodel in Portland? Source: https://portlandtile.com/guides/bathroom-remodel-permits-portland (published 2026-07-16) In Portland and most surrounding cities, a bathroom remodel needs permits whenever the work touches plumbing, electrical, or structure, which covers most tile shower and tub to shower projects. Purely cosmetic updates, like new paint, a vanity swap in place, or new flooring, generally do not. Your contractor should pull the permits for the work they perform. ### Systems versus surfaces Cities regulate the parts of a remodel that can hurt the house or the people in it: water, wiring, and structure. Replace a faucet with the shutoffs in the same place and you're redecorating. Move a drain, replace a shower valve, add a circuit for a heated floor, or open a wall, and you're doing regulated work that needs a trade permit. In practice, that means most real bathroom remodels need at least a plumbing permit, and many need electrical as well. A tub to shower conversion changes the drain and valve, so it is permitted work essentially every time. ### What typically requires a permit - Moving or replacing drain lines, supply lines, or the shower valve. - Converting a tub to a shower, or relocating a toilet, sink, or shower. - New electrical circuits: heated floors, added outlets, new lighting runs, a fan where there wasn't one. - Structural changes: removing or opening walls, recessing a curbless shower pan into the floor framing. - Water heater replacement or relocation done as part of the project. ### What usually doesn't need a permit - Paint, trim, mirrors, and accessories. - Swapping a vanity, toilet, or faucet in the same location, connection for connection. - New flooring laid over a sound subfloor. - Replacing tile in place without touching the plumbing behind it (though if the old waterproofing failed, the smart move is opening it up, which changes the answer). ### Who pulls the permit Licensed contractors pull trade permits for the work they perform; in Oregon that licensing runs through the CCB, and the permit itself through the city or county building department. When a contractor asks you to pull an owner's permit for work they are doing, that is a red flag: it shifts the liability to you and often means they can't or won't have the work inspected under their own license. We pull the permits for everything we build, schedule the inspections, and meet the inspector. It is part of the job, not an add on, and the city paperwork never lands on your desk. ### Why the inspection protects you The inspections a bathroom permit triggers, rough plumbing, the shower pan, electrical rough in, cover exactly the work that disappears behind tile and drywall. A pan flood test witnessed by an inspector is a second set of eyes on the single most failure prone part of the room, and it costs you nothing extra. Unpermitted work surfaces at the worst time: during a sale, when a buyer's inspector or an appraiser asks for permit history, or during an insurance claim after a leak. Retroactive permits and opened up walls cost far more than doing it in order. ### Related questions **How much do bathroom remodel permits cost in Portland?** Trade permit fees are set by each jurisdiction and scale with the valuation and scope of work; for a typical bathroom remodel they are a small fraction of the project cost, usually a few hundred dollars across plumbing and electrical. We fold permit costs into our estimates so the number you see already includes them. **Do permits slow the project down?** Rarely, when they're handled early. Straightforward bathroom trade permits are often issued quickly, and inspections are scheduled to land between our work phases, the pan inspection happens while tile is being staged anyway. The delays you hear about usually come from permits pulled late, after work already started. **What happens if previous owners remodeled without permits?** It's common, especially in Portland's older housing stock, and it isn't your emergency until you remodel or sell. When we open a wet area and find unpermitted work, we bring what we touch up to current code under our permits. If you're buying a home with a suspiciously new bathroom and no permit history, budget for the possibility that the waterproofing is cosmetic. **Are the rules the same in Beaverton, Vancouver, and the suburbs?** The principle is the same everywhere in the metro: plumbing, electrical, and structural work needs permits; cosmetics don't. The specifics, fees, forms, and which county or city office issues them, vary by jurisdiction, and Vancouver follows Washington's rules rather than Oregon's. We work across both states and handle each city's process as part of the job. --- ## How long does a bathroom remodel take? Source: https://portlandtile.com/guides/bathroom-remodel-timeline (published 2026-07-16) A typical bathroom remodel takes two to four weeks of active work once demo starts. A focused tub to shower conversion runs about two weeks; a full remodel with relocated plumbing or custom tile runs three to four; a luxury suite can take four to eight. Waterproofing cure times, inspections, and glass lead times set the floor, no matter who you hire. ### The week before demo The remodels that finish on time are the ones where nothing is decided after the walls open. Tile, fixtures, the vanity, and glass hardware all get selected and ordered before demo day, because a valve on a two week backorder can idle a torn apart bathroom. We don't start demolition until the critical materials are in hand or reliably scheduled. ### Week one: demo and rough in Demo itself takes a day or two. Then plumbing and electrical rough in: the new valve, relocated drains, circuits for heated floors or lighting. This is also when surprises surface, and in Portland's older homes they often do: galvanized supply lines, knob and tube wiring, a subfloor that met water years ago. Finding them in week one is the good outcome; we budget contingency for exactly this. Rough in inspections land at the end of this phase, checking the work before it is sealed up. ### Week two: waterproofing and tile Substrate, waterproofing, and the pan. Membranes need cure time, the pan gets flood tested, and then tile setting begins. Thinset and grout each have their own working and curing windows, and large format tile or intricate patterns set slower than a simple field. This is the stretch where a rushed crew cuts the corners that leak in year five, so we don't compress it. ### Weeks three and four: fixtures, finish, and glass Vanity, toilet, lighting, trim, paint, and hardware go in over the tile. Shower glass is the one item that cannot be ordered ahead of time: it is measured off the finished tile, then fabricated, which typically takes one to two weeks. On a conversion, we sequence so the glass is the only thing you're waiting on, and the shower is usable with a temporary solution if needed. The project ends with a walkthrough: we go through the room together, catch anything that isn't right, and fix it before we call the job done. ### What stretches a remodel - Mid project changes: swapping tile after ordering, moving a fixture after rough in. The change itself is quick; the reordering and reinspection are not. - Hidden damage: rot or mold behind an old shower adds framing repair before anything new starts. - Layout changes: moving the toilet or shower adds plumbing, inspection, and sometimes structural time. - Backordered materials: the reason we order everything before demo. - Working crews thin: a contractor juggling five jobs gives you two day weeks. Ask how many projects run at once, and ask who runs yours; our answer is one project manager on your job until it's done. ### Related questions **Can I use my bathroom during the remodel?** Not the one being remodeled; it is out of service from demo to walkthrough. Homes with a second bathroom barely notice. For single bath homes, we plan the sequence to keep the toilet functional as long as possible and restore it as early as possible, and we're upfront about the days it won't be. **Why do quotes promise one week when everyone says two to four?** A one week bathroom is possible only by skipping the things that take time: membrane cure, a flood test, inspections, and grout cure. Acrylic surround installers can legitimately move faster because there's no tile system to build, but a one week tile shower should make you ask exactly which steps are being compressed. **How long before I can shower in a new tile shower?** Once grout and silicone have cured, typically two to three days after the last of each goes in, the shower is ready for water. If glass is still in fabrication, the tile shower itself is usable with a curtain rod as a bridge. We tell you the exact date at the walkthrough rather than leaving you to guess. **Does winter slow down bathroom remodels in Portland?** Interior work runs year round, and winter is often the easiest time to schedule. The weather matters mostly for ventilation during demo and cure times in cold rooms, which we manage with heat and airflow. If you want a new bathroom by the holidays, the conversation should start in early fall. --- ## Tub or shower: which is right for your bathroom? Source: https://portlandtile.com/guides/tub-vs-shower (published 2026-07-16) Choose based on how you live, with one resale guardrail: keep at least one tub somewhere in the house if you can. If a tub gets used a few times a year and you shower daily, a walk in shower conversion almost always serves you better. Households with young children, dedicated bath takers, or only one bathroom should think harder before removing the only tub. ### Count how often you use the tub When did someone last take a bath in the tub you're debating? For most primary bathrooms we remodel, the answer is measured in years. A tub you don't use is the most expensive storage shelf in the house: it eats a five foot run of wall, forces a daily step over, and gives nothing back. Meanwhile the shower you use twice a day is squeezed into whatever space the tub left over. Flipping that allocation, a generous walk in shower where the tub sat, is the single most life improving change in most primary baths. ### Resale value: keep one tub in the house Buyers with small children, and the agents advising them, look for at least one bathtub somewhere in the home. If your house has a hall bath with a tub, converting the primary to a walk in shower is no obstacle to resale and often a selling point; a spacious tiled shower reads as an upgrade at every price point. If it's the only tub, weigh your timeline. Staying ten years? Build the bathroom for your life, not a hypothetical buyer's. Selling within a few years in a family neighborhood? Keep a tub or accept that some buyers will mentally deduct the cost of adding one back. ### Aging in place considerations The side of a standard tub is a fifteen inch climb that gets less funny every year. A walk in or curbless shower with a bench, a handheld sprayer, and blocking for grab bars is the difference between staying in your home comfortably and remodeling under pressure later. If this is your long term house, the conversion is partly an insurance policy. ### Freestanding tub plus shower Larger primary bathrooms can skip the tradeoff entirely: a walk in shower for daily life and a freestanding soaking tub as the centerpiece. It needs floor space, roughly a room of eighty square feet or more to feel uncramped, and it's the signature move of the luxury remodels we build in Lake Oswego and Camas. Where the room allows it, nothing photographs better. ### What a conversion involves A tub to shower conversion removes the tub, rebuilds the wet area on a bonded waterproofing membrane, moves the drain from a tub drain to a properly sloped shower drain, and finishes in tile with a niche, new fixtures, and glass. Typical Portland area cost runs $12,000 to $18,000 or more, with about two weeks of active work. ### Related questions **Does removing a tub lower home value?** Not when at least one tub remains in the house; a quality walk in shower in the primary bath typically helps value. Removing the only tub can narrow your buyer pool in family oriented neighborhoods. The finish quality matters as much as the fixture choice: a dated tub loses to a beautiful tiled shower with most buyers. **Are soaker tubs worth it?** For people who bathe, absolutely; for everyone else they become sculpture. A freestanding soaker earns its space when it gets weekly use or anchors a large primary suite visually. If you're installing one for resale alone, a bigger, better shower usually returns more per square foot. **Can a shower go exactly where the tub was?** Usually, yes. A standard alcove tub occupies a 30-by-60-inch footprint, which converts into a generous walk in shower with no wall moves. The drain relocates within the same plumbing zone, which keeps cost down. Curbless entry is often possible in the same footprint, depending on your floor framing. **What about tub and shower combos with glass doors?** They solve nothing well: you keep the climb over, gain glass to squeegee, and still bathe in a cramped alcove tub. If the room can only hold one fixture, pick the one that matches your actual routine rather than combining two compromised versions. --- ## Tile shower or acrylic surround: which should you choose? Source: https://portlandtile.com/guides/tile-vs-acrylic-shower (published 2026-07-16) Acrylic surrounds cost less and install in days; tile showers cost more up front and last decades longer. Acrylic suits rentals, tight budgets, and fast turnarounds. Tile wins on lifespan, looks, repairability, and resale: a hand set tile shower on a bonded membrane is a permanent upgrade, while acrylic starts aging the day it's installed. ### Where we stand We build tile showers and don't install acrylic surrounds. That is why this comparison plays it straight: if acrylic is the right call for your situation, we would rather tell you than sell you. Both products solve the same problem, keeping water in a box. They differ in how long they solve it and what they do for the room. ### Cost: tile vs acrylic A quality acrylic or fiberglass surround, installed, typically costs a fraction of a tile shower, and the big conversion companies quote installs measured in days. A custom tile shower in the Portland area runs $10,000 to $25,000 or more, depending on size, tile, and glass. The gap narrows over time. An acrylic unit that yellows, scratches, or cracks gets replaced whole, walls open again, another install bill. Tile gets regrouted or has a single tile swapped. Over twenty five years, one tile shower can cost less than the second and third acrylic unit. ### Lifespan: tile vs acrylic Acrylic surrounds live roughly ten to fifteen years before UV yellowing, flexing, scratching, or seam failure catches up with them, sooner with heavy use or harsh cleaners. A tile shower built on a modern bonded membrane is a multi decade assembly; the grout needs periodic attention, but the system itself is built to outlast every fixture around it. The caveat cuts both ways: a tile shower without real waterproofing behind it is worse than a good acrylic unit, because the leak stays hidden in the framing until the damage is done. The membrane is the product; the tile is the finish. ### Looks and resale value Acrylic reads as builder grade because it is: molded panels in a handful of whites. Tile is the difference between a bathroom that got fixed and a bathroom that got designed, and buyers price that difference. In listings, 'custom tile shower' is a feature; 'new surround' is a disclosure. Repairability matters here too. A cracked acrylic panel is forever; a chipped tile is an afternoon. ### When acrylic is the right call - Rental units, where durability per dollar and fast turnover beat aesthetics. - A hard budget under five figures that a tile shower simply doesn't fit. - A bathroom that must be back in service in two or three days. - Flipping on a short timeline in a price band where buyers don't pay for tile. ### When tile is worth it - The home you plan to keep: the lifespan math favors tile within one acrylic replacement cycle. - Primary bathrooms, where you see and touch the room every day. - Any bathroom where design matters: niches, benches, patterns, and stone are tile only moves. - Resale in neighborhoods where finished bathrooms drive offers, which in Portland is most of them. ### Related questions **Are acrylic surrounds waterproof?** The panels are; the seams and corners are the weak points. Acrylic units rely on caulk lines and flange overlaps that require maintenance, and slow seam leaks behind an acrylic unit can go unnoticed for years, the same failure mode as bad tile work. Whatever system you choose, the installation quality decides whether it stays dry. **Can you tile over an existing acrylic surround?** No, and anyone offering to should be shown the door. Tile needs a rigid, bonded, waterproofed substrate; acrylic flexes and bonds to nothing. The surround comes out, the wet area gets rebuilt with proper backer and membrane, and then tile goes on. That demolition is part of every honest tile conversion quote. **Is grout really that much maintenance?** Less than its reputation. Modern grouts resist staining far better than the grout in your childhood bathroom, sealed or urethane based grout in a properly built shower needs a periodic refresh, not a lifestyle. The horror stories mostly come from showers where failing grout was the visible symptom of failed waterproofing behind it. **What about cultured marble or fiberglass?** They sit in the same family as acrylic: molded, seam dependent, and time limited, with fiberglass at the budget end and cultured marble a step up in look. The decision framework is identical, and so is the ceiling: none of them add value the way hand set tile does. # Plan a project Budget estimator (six questions, returns a Portland area labor and installation range, not a quote): https://portlandtile.com/plan Request an estimate: https://portlandtile.com/estimate # Pricing disclaimer All dollar figures in this file are nonbinding, illustrative planning estimates for typical Portland area projects, provided for general information only. They are not a quote, bid, offer, or guarantee of price. Actual costs are established only in a written estimate or signed contract from Portland Tile & Remodels.